Review

Bar Fly

The Sunday Times - STE 24th April 2011 - Andrew Bennett

Old dog It’s been more than two years since this boutique bistro-cum-wine bar opened, making it one of the states first small-bar licensees. But it was also one of the best, combining a clean, contemporary aesthetic with a solid wine list and better-than-most bar meals. But with new players such as The Brown Fox entering the suburb, would the old guard still look the goods? In a word – absolutely.

A cut above Amphoras has always looked pretty, albeit in a masculine way. Its sleek, mod-bistro design pulls together dark wood, marble and metal that would make West Perth mining fraternity feel at home. Yet the retro Campari and Cinzano posters give the small seated area a familiar warmth, especially when the lights are dimed for dinner. And the space as a whole has some nice touches. Elegant wall-mounted wine racks, polished marble surfaces and leather banquettes are all highlights of the sophisticated surrounds.

On firm ground Perhaps in opposition to its speculative neighbours, Amphoras best attribute has always been its liquid assets. The wine list is a cracker and exactly what it should be in this neck of the woods: punchy, interesting, with some great variety by the glass – almost 30 domestic and international wines at last count. The list is printed on nice paper, leather-bound, and the staff are engaged as well, quickly recommending drops such as Fonty Pool’s juicy pinot noir and the perky Condes de Albarei albarino.

Out in front West Perth is such a chameleon of a suburb – vibrant and busy during the day, ghost town at night. But Amphoras is good enough to straddle the two and should still be considered a leader in the small – bar segment.