Review

Perth Grapevine - Rod Properjohnn

Winestate -March/April 2008, Vol 31 Issue 2

A midday gander down Hay St, West Perth, is a pleasant exercise most days of the working week, with a busy workforce of the mining, medical and financial industry racing here and there, in a hyped -up environment. There's lots to see, lots to ponder over. Add a spanking new and switched-on wine bar with seating 'in and out' and things become a helluva lot more interesting, especially through a frosty-cold glass of cava ( a Spanish sparkler for those who aren't sure).

Amphoras Bar adds a touch of Europe to Perth and don't we need it. The first recipient of a 'small bar license' here, it is legally able to serve a glass of wine or beer without any tucker, although the owners prefer you to have a nibble with a drink and supply complimentary fresh bread and olives with your choice of beverage.

This is not a pub or a restaurant but a place where you can drop in for a quick liquid restorative and snack, or linger longer and enjoy some quality wines, cocktails, beers and food from young chef Damien Bolger. It is essentially a tapas bar and I enjoy some fine dishes over lunch ( not really a long one-honest) and start with Iberico jamon (Spanish ham) with a sweet and crunchy watermelon salad. This is stunning, a full-flavoured, dark coloured smoky meat with a refreshing fruit accompaniment. "The best ham in the world," says manager Antonio Vilaca, and he should know, with his origins in Portugal and 25 years' restaurant experience in Switzerland, France, the US, Sydney, Canberra and Perth (his favourite place). Next, some simple, quickly cooked scallops with pomegranate-cured duck breast, beautifully prepared and moist. I love chefs who have the guts to serve pink game and this is red more than pink; it's glorious. Some will question my sanity but try this dish and you will be seduced-big time. A pork terrine follows, served with thinly pared Spanish cornichons (tiny pickled cucumbers) and some red grape mustard. It's a more traditional dish that excites visually as well as on the palate and it explodes in the mouth. Then I try a cheese sandwich - well, sort of. It comprises fourme d'Ambert (full-bodied French bleu), guava paste and pistachios sandwiched between slices of almond bread and slightly singed on both sides in a hot pan. Most lunch boxes, unfortunately, will never see a sandwich of this quality and flavour. I finish with a maple and hazelnut praline mousse with classic Spanish churros. If you are worried about your kilojoule intake, don't even think about churros, a decadent Spanish fried pastry doused in the most unctuous, richest, delightful chocolate you could wish for.

Amphoras Bar is clean and contemporary, seats about 75, takes no bookings and opens Monday to Saturday from 10am to late. The drinks list is smart and not overpriced. Don't miss the food; the servings are small but top-quality produce is used and apart from the jamon ($28) most dishes are around $11. Choose a few plates and have Antonio suggest a different glass of with each, then settle back and gaze at the promenade of passers-by. You can't do much better than that.